”The spinning wheel is a metaphor for autonomy.”
We visited artist Claudy Jongstra in the Dutch countryside, who sees wool as so much more than just a material for textiles.
”My grandparents came from this area. So, I knew a bit of the culture of the people here. We moved here 25 years ago and started with a tiny atelier next to my house.”
”Time passes differently here. There is no temptation, there are no shops, there’s nothing here, just the spinning wheel. I mean, after five o’clock, it’s dark, and you go into your inner world.”
Claudy Jongstra discusses her creative process, including the creation of new frescos for the International Theatre in Amsterdam, and its connection to the colour palettes of Rembrandt.
”I could never explain why I was so driven to wool. I think I recognised myself in it. Materials were always connected to areas: Silk from the east. Linus from Egypt. Cotton from other areas. And here we had wool.”
”We are now in an era where wool has been devalued. In the Netherlands, we have just one weaving company left. In Belgium, there is one of the only professional washing industries left from all Europe. Many shepherds in Spain, along with numerous related companies, are closing their doors because it has become too expensive. A lot of people feel fragmented because everything is so complex.”
”But when you take ownership, you can make a yarn, you can make your own garment, you can make your own tent, etc. That is a symbol. I mean, it’s political. It’s super political. If you can make that yourself from very basic materials at hand, you have autonomy.”
Claudy Jongstra (b.1963) is internationally renowned for her monumental textile artworks and architectural installations featuring organic structures and vibrant colours that embody her innovative approach to the ancient crafts of wool felting and natural dyeing.
She studied Fashion at the Utrecht School of the Arts (HKU) and has collaborated with designers such as John Galliano and Viktor & Rolf, as well as creating Jedi costumes for Star Wars: Episode I – The Phantom Menace. Confronted with the harmful impact of the textile industry, Jongstra chose to dedicate her artistic practice to the full life cycle of wool, sourced from a local flock of rare, indigenous Drenthe Heath sheep and the use of plant-based dyes with which she creates her famous works.
In 2001, Jongstra and her partner, Claudia Busson, settled in Friesland, where they established a biodynamic farm, a historic dye plant garden, and her studio. In 2022, she founded LOADS, a creative space hosting workshops, events, dinners, and lectures. From this initiative emerged LOADS Collection, the world’s first Demeter-certified clothing and interior textile label. A regenerative approach to the landscape, a zero-waste philosophy, and an inclusive, collaborative way of working form the foundation of her practice.
Claudy Jongstra work is included in major public and private collections worldwide, including the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York; San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, USA; Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK; Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam, NL; University of Pennsylvania Van Pelt-Dietrich Library, USA; Mingei International Museum, San Diego, USA; Museum De Lakenhal, Leiden. NL, as well as institutional and corporate collections such as the Triodos Bank Art Collection, AkzoNobel Art Foundation, the Embassy and Permanent Representation of the Kingdom of the Netherlands to the European Union in Brussels, and Internationaal Theatre Amsterdam (ITA), among others.
Claudy Jongstra was interviewed by Anders Mørch in her studio in November 2024.
Camera: Anders Mørch
Edited by: Anders Mørch
Produced by: Marc-Christoph Wagner
Copyright: Louisiana Channel, Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, 2025
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